Roswell Provisions Feels Like a General Store That Went to France

Roswell Provisions offers an inviting blend of European market flavors and a vintage American general store setting. Located on Canton Street, it’s known for its cheese, charcuterie, coffee, and French-inspired sandwiches in a warm, eclectic space.

There is a moment after walking into Roswell Provisions when it becomes difficult to decide exactly what kind of place you have entered.

There is coffee and pastry near the front. Farther inside are cheeses, cured meats, baguettes and sandwiches. Wine fills another corner. Old furniture appears almost everywhere: a typewriter on a wooden desk, vintage fans, mismatched chairs, old mirrors, barrels, books and lamps. Exposed brick gives the place the bones of an old American general store, while blackboards filled with Brie, Roquefort, Gruyère, Manchego, prosciutto and saucisson pull the room firmly toward Europe.

Somehow, the two belong together.

We stopped there on a pleasant morning while walking Canton Street. Outside, a mother sat with her daughter and two grandchildren, lingering over the kind of morning that did not appear to require a schedule.

Before ordering, we asked about the coffee. My wife likes it strong, and we were wondering whether we would get a large, mild American cup or something closer to what we associate with European coffee.

“It should be strong enough,” we were told.

It was.

That small exchange turned out to be a good introduction to Roswell Provisions.

A European market in an old Roswell room

Roswell Provisions opened in 2011, created by Kelly Smith-Blacha and Lorry Kemp, with Smith-Blacha’s husband, Cyril Blacha, a native of France, helping shape its French character. The idea grew from the neighborhood markets Smith-Blacha encountered while traveling in Europe: small places where cheese, meat, wine, bread and conversation occupy the same room. More than 15 years later, that idea is still easy to recognize.

The cheese board stretches well beyond the usual deli choices. There are French blues and soft cheeses, Spanish Manchego, Italian Parmigiano Reggiano and provolone, Swiss Gruyère, goat and sheep cheeses, along with American selections. Nearby are pâté, saucisson, lamb merguez, prosciutto, soppressata, capicola and other charcuterie. Crackers, jams, bread and small pantry items fill shelves between them.

It feels less like a coffee shop with some retail merchandise and more like a neighborhood delicatessen that happens to make very good coffee.

The sandwiches continue the same idea. A jambon-beurre keeps things beautifully simple with ham and butter on bread. There are croque monsieur, French dip, quiche and other café staples, while the upstairs Le Bistro goes further with crepes, salads, beef bourguignon and other French-leaning dishes. Weekend brunch is served there as well.

The room may be the best part

Every seating area seems to have developed its own personality. Near the front window, a small sofa and chairs overlook Canton Street. Elsewhere, a large paper lantern hangs over an antique desk and black typewriter. Bare branches stretch toward Edison bulbs near the ceiling. There are old shutters, wooden cabinets, a bicycle on the wall and wine racks tucked into corners.

Nothing feels matched, yet almost everything feels right.

That is difficult to reproduce in a newly built shopping center. Roswell Provisions works partly because Canton Street already has age, texture and imperfection built into it. The business has occupied 955 Canton Street since 2011, and even in its early years customers became so interested in the furniture and decorative pieces that the owners eventually spun off a separate home-furnishings business.

The result today feels accumulated rather than decorated.

What an older downtown can do

While we were there, an LGBTQ group came in to eat and talk. Outside was the multigenerational family. Other people wandered in from Canton Street for coffee or lunch.

Nothing about that scene was remarkable on its own. That was the appealing part. It felt easy.

Older downtowns sometimes produce that kind of social mixture more naturally than newer suburban centers do. Johns Creek and South Forsyth have excellent restaurants, parks and increasingly ambitious mixed-use developments, but places built recently cannot immediately reproduce decades of people developing habits around the same sidewalks and storefronts.

Historic Roswell already has those layers. At Roswell Provisions, you can sit beside the window with an espresso and watch Canton Street pass. You can buy a wedge of Manchego or Gruyère for home. You can order a baguette sandwich, browse the wine, move upstairs for lunch or simply settle into one of those mismatched chairs for a while.

It is French without feeling like a theme restaurant, Southern without trying to look rustic, and old-fashioned without becoming precious about it.

Roswell Provisions feels a little like an American general store that wandered through France and Spain, came home carrying wine, cheese and baguettes, and decided not to redecorate. On Canton Street, that combination makes perfect sense.

Roswell Provisions is at 955 Canton Street in downtown Roswell. The market is open Monday through Thursday from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Le Bistro upstairs keeps separate lunch, dinner and weekend brunch hours.

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About the Author

Tsvi Jolles

Author, Editor & Publisher

Tsvi Jolles is the author of seven books and the founder and publisher of North Atlanta Star. He has lived in Cumming for almost a decade.

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